Sunday, December 19, 2010

Friday, December 10

     Today was a busy first day at the IOP.  After breakfast, I learned all about the different programs here.  It is truly an amazing place.  They are working to become sustainable in a way that just makes sense.  They grow nearly all of their food and sell the extras to buy ywhat they can't grow.  They have cows, goats, dogs, picgs, chickens, and rabbits.  The pig barn is nicer than many Tanzanian homes.  They have a solar cooker, tree nursery, and water catchment system.  Over 1,000 students are sponsored.  Foster families are given beds, school fees, etc, and sometimes even a new house.  The IOP hires many former sponsor students to be carpenters, wood workers, knitters, councilors, cooks, and teachers.  They employ former students to make school uniform sweaters for the students and to sell to others.  They also have 2 shops, a restaurant, guest house, library, internet cafe, high school, and preschool!  Everything just fits together!
     I went to visit Elisha's gardens.  He is a very funny man.  Right when I met him he asked me to take his picture.  He then pretended to take mine and said, "in my mind and in my heart forever."  He was very excited to tell me all about the fruits and vegetables.  They use only the organic fertilizer from the animals.  He picked some things just for me.  The cook is very excited for me to show her how to cook summer squash and zucchini.  Later, I helped wash windows on a ladder and mop the floors.  I also went to visit the shop and the preschool.  It doesn't exactly look like what you would expect a preschool to look like- pretty much just desks in rows.
     I had a good time hanging out in the kitchen this evening and joking around with the girls.  They are all so fun and act like sisters.

Thursday, December 9

SIT is officially over now.  It was strange to say goodbye to everyone as we all parted ways.  Today, I traveled to the Ilula Orphan Program.  I left at 5:00 am (in the dark) to walk to the bus station.  We departed at 5:45, and slowly began to make our way toward Ilula.  There were dozens of police checkpoints to stop at along the way.  At one of the these, the officer boarded the bus and addressed the passengers to tell us that we were speeding, and that we should tell the driver to slow down if it happens again!  At another checkpoint, an officer walked straight to me, asked for my passport, and then left.  Do I stand out that much?  I knew I should be nearing my stop, and I saw the sign for it, so I started to get off the bus.  But then, people tried to help me, got confused, and told me it wasn't my stop.  I waited and got off at the next stop, which someone told me was mine.  I soon realized that it wasn't the right one.  So, I was alone, in the dark, and lost.  Luckily I was able to text the woman from the orphanage and ask them to pick me up there instead.  Some nice people brought me inside their restaurant to wait.  Tulia arrived in a pick up truck with all of the girls from the orphanage crammed into the back to greet me.  I finally arrived at the orphanage after 14.5 hours of traveling!  Everyone was very welcoming and the girls sang and danced for me!

Thursday, November 25, 2010

Thursday, November 25

 Happy Thanksgiving!
 We made it back to Arusha!  The rest of our stay in Mto wa Mbu was fairly uneventful.  Except, one day I went for a walk.  The bottom part of the sole of my sandal can unattached and was flapping when I walked.  A man on a bike noticed and stopped to say sorry and hello.  Then, he bent down and took my shoe off my foot to have a closer look.  He said it could be fixed if I had 500 shillings ($0.33).  He said he would take me there to get it fixed.  He wouldn’t let me walk with the condition of my sandal, so he gave me a ride on the back of his bike.  The shoe man rubber cemented and stitched the sole right back on- good as new.  What a kind act from a stranger who wanted nothing in return.  The shoe man, however, was pretty serious about us getting married so I could take him back to the US!
 As our dala dala stopped in Arusha, they opened up the back to let a sheep out.  We had no idea we had been riding with a sheep right under our seat the whole time!!
 Since the theme of this seems to be funny stories, here’s one more.  Last night, I was all ready for bed and just going to brush my teeth.  I turned the faucet, and somehow the whole thing broke off.  It didn’t just pop off; metal actually snapped off!  Scalding hot water was gushing out and made the metal so hot that there was no chance of me trying to fix it.  I quickly got dressed and ran downstairs to hopefully find someone working still.  I was trying to explain the situation in Kiswahili, but he just thought I had no hot water.  I had plenty of hot water.  He tried to fix it, and was just leaving and said it would be fine as long as I don’t touch it.  Just then, it blew off again!  He thought it was pretty funny.  Then, he filled a little bucket with water and balanced it on top of the faucet to hold it down.  “Hamna shida!” (No problem!)
 It was a nice treat to be able to talk on the phone with my family today!  Most of the students have just arrived back in Arusha and we all went out for Chinese food for Thanksgiving!

Saturday, November 20

We are still in Mto wa Mbu working on ISP’s. I finished all 50 of my interviews and now I am working on analyzing my data, writing my report, and making a powerpoint presentation. We don’t have a working power outlet in our room, so we usually spend our afternoons by the pool at the Twiga Campsite. We can swim to cool off and use their power outlets. I have also done some Christmas shopping here. It’s really great to be able to cook here. Lots of delicious grilled tomato or fried egg sandwiches, rice and veggies, and I even made spaghetti and homemade sauce! And of course, plenty of delicious bananas. They grow over 30 varieties in this town! An, if we don’t feel like cooking, there is always wali na maharage (rice and beans) at all of the restaurants.
It’s hard to believe that I’ll be home in less than a month now! I’m trying to decide what I am most excited for:

(other than family and friends, in no particular order)
flush toilets (that actually flush)
turkey wraps
macaroni and cheese (or maybe just cheese in general)
cold enough to sleep with blankets
not living out of a backpack
hot shower with pressure (it’s usually only one or the other here)
internet whenever you want it
consistent electricity
clean feet
washing machine
cookies/brownies/ice cream
cold milk
bagels (blueberry, toasted with cream cheese)
meat that you can actually chew, without shards of bone
apples
not feeling like a celebrity walking down the street
no mosque calls at 5 am
no mosquito nets (or mosquitoes, for that matter)
wearing pants in public
Harry Potter movie
Not having to steripen my water
Not being constantly asked for things- pens, money, candy, watch, backpack, shoes, etc.

Sunday, November 7

 I spent the rest of finals week in Arusha, writing papers.  We had 5 people staying in a triple room, so it was a little crowded!  I survived off of lots of peanut butter, bread, and fresh fruits and veggies from the market.  It is fun to buy a ton of fresh food for so little money!  We had a nice “good luck” dinner Thursday before we all left for ISP.  After getting stuck in traffic in a dala dala that kept breaking down, we finally got to the restaurant an hour late!  We ended up having to get out and walk at the end.  We all go $550 in a huge stack of shillings and a hug, and then we were all on our own!  There is a group of 6 of us doing our projects in Mto wa Mbu.  We are staying in some guest rooms in the home of the headmistress of the secondary school.  We were each supposed to have our own room, but they haven’t finished building the rest of the rooms yet.  For now, we are sharing with 2 in a room.  It’s not bad, and it’s only 4,000 shillings each per night (about $2.50!).  There is also a kitchen we can use.  Last night we cooked out 1st meal of noodle, stir fried veggies, fried potatoes, tomatoes, and pineapple. 
 I have started collecting data about charcoal production for my project.  So far, I have only done 2 interviews.  Hopefully I can find a lot more people soon!  My guide takes me out for a few hours each morning for interviews, but I have a lot of free time here.

Monday, November 1

 After Maasai homestay, we spent 2 more nights camping in Engare Sera.  We had some focal groups with Maasai men and women.  They had some very interesting questions for us.  They were very interested in our marriage customs.  The men asked us how lesbian couples are able to have sex, and a couple of them got up and left when they got their answer!  A couple of Maasai warriors came and slaughtered a goat for us.  It is quite a process.  First, the suffocate it so it doesn’t spoil the blood.  Then they skin it and remove the fall bladder.  The blood all flows into the body cavity, and they drink it directly out of the body!  It coagulates very quickly and they eat it like jello.  The kidneys are also eaten raw.  Then they separate out the rest of the parts and roast them on the fire.  Mmmm (not really).  On Friday, we had a free day.  I chose to go for a hike up the river.  We hiked along the ledges with breathtaking views the whole time.  Over 20 waterfalls!  We ended up at a huge canyon cul de sac with waterfalls all around.  It was a beautiful way to spend the day!
 We returned to Arusha on Saturday.  A woman had visited the camp a few day before, because she was going to have a baby.  Baba Jack gave her a ride to the clinic.  The baby was born prematurely, and was in need of much more medical attention than the clinic could offer.  We made room in one of our cars for them and rushed them to the hospital in Arusha, 5 hours away on a dusty, bumpy, hot road.  They weren’t sure if they would make it in time.  Unfortunately, we found out today that the baby did not survive the surgery.  Baba Jack helped them bury it today.  It felt so great knowing that we could help save a life, but unfortunately, it was not enough.  Theis leads me to question my opposition to the paved road that will cut through the Serengeti.  Maybe if there was a road, the baby could have gotten to the hospital in time.
 The presidential elections were yesterday.  Today, we found out that the opposition party won in Arusha.  This has never happened before.  CCM usually get 80-90% of the vote overall.  People took to the streets and there were huge riots.  Dozens of people would cram into cars, trucks, or dala dalas and honk and wave flags.  I saw one group of several thousand running down the street!  People started burning posters of Kikwete, the president, and the army was called in to keep things under control!  There is very little chance that CCM didn’t win the president spot, but people are celebrating this small victory nonetheless!  We kept close to the hotel today, but it was fun watching everything from the roof!

Sunday, October 31, 2010

Thursday, October 28

 Well, these past few days have certainly been interesting!  As soon as I arrived at the boma, my sister Nyini stripped my down and redressed my as a Maasai woman, complete with tons of jewelry.  Nyini led me around and she pretty much never left my side.  The Maasai have no concept of personal space.  We slept together, collected water and firewood, beaded jewelry, ate from the same bowl, bathed together, and went to the bathroom together!  She went to primary school, so she speaks Kiswahili, but no English.  Most people only speak Kimaasai, so I was lucky to be able to speak Kiswahili with someone.  I was so proud to be able to get by without English for 4 days!  I learned how to carry water and firewood on my head, to bead jewelry, to milk a goat and a cow, to spread fresh manure on the house to patch holes, and to sing and dance at the Esoto.  It was really funny to see the looks on the tourists’ faces when they saw an mzungu Maasai!  Each evening a huge dust storm would sweep through and we got caught in two while collecting water.  I couldn’t see, hear or breathe!  The first day it was accompanied by a rain storm.  The rain was blowing horizontally and felt like hail on my face!  When we crossed the river, the water was blowing upriver and it was like walking underwater!  At least there was a beautiful rainbow!
 The families ask that we take picture while we are visiting as compensation instead of other gifts.  Baba Jack’s friend who is a National Geographic photographer was so jealous to hear that we have free reign to photograph Maasai for 4 days!  Everyone wants their picture taken, and many of them have probably never seen themselves in a mirror before.  The kids go crazy whenever they see a camera.  It was really hard to take good pictures, because people would insist on posing, or kids would swarm and push each other away, or someone else would grab my camera away.  No one knows how to take pictures- they don’t understand that you can move to get a better angle or distance.  It was fun for awhile, but it got really frustrating!  I learned so much from this, and I’m sure I’ll write more stories later.  But, for now, it is nice to have some space to myself and some food other than rice, ugali, and beans.